“Angry Chef” Ron Eyester apparently has a not-so-secret plan up his sleeve to take over the entire Morningside/Virginia Highlands area. He recently added a third restaurant – Timone’s – to his collection (Rosebud and The Family Dog being the first and second).
A recent Friday afternoon happy hour at The Family Dog eventually turned into wandering across the street for pizza. Much to our surprise, our party of six was seated immediately. On the interior, Timone’s certainly has that New York pizza joint vibe going on. The kitchen opens right into the restaurant and the eclectic wall-art features instructions for making chicken parm and the New York Last Supper.
Onto the pizza…
Among other things, the menu offers a selection of 9 pies. It also makes sure to point out that they’ve installed a special carbon filtration system on the house water that allows them to replicate the exact water that comes out of the taps in New York City. I wasn’t aware that the tap water in NYC was so special – apparently it is when it comes to making pizza dough.
The pies are all pretty intricate, so Timone’s probably isn’t the place to go if you’re looking for a plain-jane slice of cheese or pepperoni. We decided on three pies to share amongst the group.
The white pizza with béchamel, house-made ricotta, romano, and mozzarella was the pizza I was expecting to love the most. I’m pretty confident that I could eat white pizza for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, every single day. I think it would have been my favorite had it been served without the béchamel. The creamy, white sauce was just enough to push this pizza over the edge of too rich for my liking. I still enjoyed the flavor of the white pizza, but one slice was more than enough.
The pizza that did turn out to be my favorite, was the heirloom & cherry tomato pizza, served with arugula pesto, mozzarella, and goat cheese. After one bite, I was sold. The savory tartness of the goat cheese, combined with the earthiness of the pesto, and the sweetness of the tomatoes was absolutely perfect. I would return to Timone’s and order this pie again, no question.
The Riverview Farms meatball pie was another solid choice. The pie was topped with a red sauce, pickled banana peppers, basil, chile oil, and of course, meatballs. The red sauce-meatball combination felt in a way like I was eating spaghetti and meatballs, in pizza form. The banana peppers and chile oil provided just enough kick to keep things interesting. If you’re looking for a heartier, meatier pizza than some of the other menu selections, go with the meatball. You won’t be disappointed.
Now about that pizza dough. It was pretty fantastic (as it should be if you’re going to spend an entire paragraph describing it on the menu). You can’t really have a good pizza without a solid foundation, and Timone’s dough was spot-on. The thickness of the crust was just right – not too thick, not too thin. It was crispy on the outside, doughy on the inside. Maybe there really is something special about that New York tap water after all.
We weren’t hungry enough to try anything other than the pizza, but the drinks and service were nothing to complain about.
If there’s anything the Virginia Highlands was lacking up until a few weeks ago, it was a quality pizza place. The pizzas at Timone’s were nicely sized for sharing, reasonably priced ($15-17), and most importantly, quite tasty. It appears as though the pizza void has been filled…perhaps this will make the Angry Chef just a tad less angry? I won’t hold my breath.